How to look as suave as Bond with minimal effort

How to look as suave as Bond with minimal effort….

Often, when thinking about how men can accessorise their look, pocket squares are a simple but effective style statement.

Pocket squares come in a plethora of designs and fabrics. I love cotton lawn which is a fine cotton with a silky feel and usually quite affordable. Real silk is also wonderful if your budget stretches that far. Personally, I believe that fabrics like tweed or wool make fabulous jackets and ties but aren’t ideal for a pocket square, no matter how simple the fold. It is also not a good idea to use the same fabric in the jacket, tie and pocket square. You want to channel the flair of Rami Malek, not upholstery.

I like to design pocket squares to co-ordinate with the tie, there is something about working with colour that intrigues me! When I make a wool or tweed tie however, I often like to make the tipping, that’s the bit of lining that shows, in a cotton lawn (often Liberty) that matches the pocket square. I like the fact that maybe only the wearer and I are “in” on the style!

Pocket squares are often made with a rolled or flat hem. These are preferable, overlocking (stitching that goes over the edge of the fabric) isn’t the classical look you are seeking!

There are as many ways of wearing one as there are days in the month, but some seem to stand the test of time, adding that touch of individuality without being too “in your face”.

Some men are happy to flaunt a bouffant style and have probably mastered many of the complicated folds. But what of the newbie, the guy who really likes the statement but is dedicated to the less is more adage?

There is one classic fold that should encourage the budding “dapper” to channel his inner Bond, making the pocket square the go-to accessory rather than a shy wall flower.

I am talking about the “presidential” as favoured by Bond, Beckham and the cast of Mad Men. This oh so subtle look gives a nod towards true elegance, no matter how avant garde the design. For all those who yearn to have the cool confidence of Harvey Spectre, this is the one for you (and him). With the Presidential a small line of the fabric appears just above the pocket. Simply fold your pocket square into a rectangle that fits neatly into the pocket. Keep it smooth and straight. The beauty of this fold is in its precision.

The presidential fold in a pocket square means it can be worn with a formal shirt and tie but looks equally at home in a tweed jacket for the weekend or dressing up a trendy waistcoat.

For many, there is a security in the matching tie/pocket square combo and this can be seen as the trainer wheels on your style bike. As your confidence grows and wearing a pocket square becomes a natural finishing touch, then experiment. There is no rule about them having to match. Do a floral tie with polka dot pocket square. A plain linen with a cotton pocket square that co-ordinates.

If you decide to go with a plain white pocket square, go for silk or Liberty cotton lawn, something sophisticated rather than functional. After all, the adage goes “one for blow, one for show”.